I quit using the ohms-only test on dryer heaters last year, now I always amp clamp first
A heater coil in a Kenmore can read 10 ohms and still be open once it heats up and breaks contact, which cost me two callback trips in the same week last March. Now I clamp the wire and watch the draw before I pull the element, has anyone else been burned by a meter that lied on a hot coil?