Was installing some custom shaker doors for a kitchen remodel last month. Everything was going smooth until I grabbed a door to hang it and my hand slipped on this razor sharp edge from the router. Blood everywhere on this white painted door. Client walks in right as Im trying to wrap my finger in blue shop towels. Ended up needing 4 stitches at urgent care. Worst part was the door was my fault for not breaking the edge with sandpaper before install. Anyone else have a close call with sharp edges on CNC cut doors?
I usually cut dadoes with a table saw and a dado stack, but last month I tried using a plunge base router on a walnut bookshelf project in Portland. The bit walked on me during the first pass and ruined a $60 board because I didn't secure the guide rails tight enough. Learned that I really need to clamp everything down way more than I thought with a router, or just stick to the table saw for dadoes. Anyone else have trouble switching between tools for the same cut?
Had a client last month who wanted slab doors but was on a tight budget. I priced out thermofoil at $45 a door and painted MDF at $68 a door. Client picked thermofoil because of the savings. First week in, steam from the dishwasher already started lifting the edge on one of the panels. Now I'm wondering if I should've pushed harder for the painted option or if there's a way to make thermofoil hold up better in high moisture spots. Anyone else run into this call and regret it?
Back in 2004 I was still using that old hot hide glue pot my mentor gave me. It worked fine but you had to keep it at exactly 145 degrees or it would gel up on you mid-assembly. I switched to Titebond III on a big library job in Portland about 8 years ago. No more reheating joints when the phone rings. Has anyone else had better luck with one over the other for face frames?
Had a kitchen remodel in Phoenix where the homeowner wanted cheap cabinets. I used particle board on the drawer boxes like I always did. Got a call two days later that one drawer just collapsed under a load of pots and pans. The weight snapped the bottom right out of the box. I had to drive 3 hours back to replace all the drawer bottoms with plywood. That extra $200 in materials taught me never to cut corners on drawer construction again. Any of you guys had a similar fail that made you switch materials?
I was picking up some plywood yesterday and this young guy was telling the counter guy how dados are old school and just use pocket screws for everything now... I get that pocket screws are fast but I spent years cutting perfect dados and I feel like they hold up way better over time. Has anyone else had a job come back because pocket screws just didn't hold?
I flipped the order and glued the middle joint first instead of working from one side. The panel actually came out flatter with less clamping pressure. Anybody else mess with their glue up order or just stick to what they know?
My supplier talked me into using prefinished cherry ply for a kitchen remodel 2 months ago, said it saves time and looks cleaner. But the edges were a pain to match and the finish chipped when I cut it. Anyone else think raw ply with your own finish still comes out better?
He saw me loading up some pre-finished plywood and asked why I bother with that stuff. Said he's still doing everything with solid cherry and MDF panel doors, and he's been at it for 30 years out of his shop in Akron. Got me thinking maybe I've been taking shortcuts with pre-finish instead of learning better spray technique. Anyone else feel like the old ways still beat the new stuff sometimes?
I had to pick between birch plywood and MDF for a set of kitchen cabinet doors last Thursday. The customer wanted painted finish so I almost went with MDF because it's smoother, but the quote came in close enough that I went with the plywood instead. After three coats of primer and sanding, the plywood edges still showed a bit of grain that I had to fill twice. Has anyone else dealt with this choice for painted cabinets?
I spent last weekend building a 6-foot kitchen island and decided to compare pocket holes and dado joints side by side. The pocket holes were way faster, about 45 minutes saved on assembly, but the dado joints were rock solid with zero racking. Has anyone else found that pocket holes flex too much on heavy use pieces?
Honestly, I bought that fancy drill jig from Blum last spring thinking it'd make door hinges a breeze. Paid around $200 for the kit and then kept putting it off because my old method worked fine. Finally used it last week on a set of 12 cabinet doors and man, I was annoyed I waited so long. The alignment was dead on first try on every single door, no adjustments needed. Now I'm kicking myself for not opening the box sooner. Anybody else buy a tool and let it collect dust before realizing it's a game changer?
I had this guy come in with a set of shaker doors I'd done for him 5 years ago. He said they looked fine but the finish was peeling along the inside edges of the panel. He asked if I used a random orbit between primer and paint. I said yeah, 220 grit. He laughed and said that's why it failed. Said the dust gets trapped in the grain and creates a weak bond. Now I just wipe with a tack cloth and go straight to paint after primer. Has anyone else had a finish fail because of sanding between coats on MDF or poplar?
Still can't explain what happened. Every joint just came together perfect. Grain was cooperating, chisels were sharp, maybe it was the humidity or something. Usually I mess up at least one or two. Has anybody else had one of those mystery perfect days where you just know not to question it and keep working?
I was getting tearout on every board until an older guy at a Rockler class told me to sharpen the iron at 25 degrees instead of 30. Has anyone else had better luck with a steeper bevel for hardwoods?
They said the action felt 'gritty' on a built-in I delivered, so I switched from the basic side-mounts to full-extension undermounts on the next project. The difference in feel is night and day... anyone have a go-to brand for soft-close undermounts they trust?
Had a job with eight upper cabinets. Doors kept sitting crooked no matter how I adjusted the hinges. After three tries, I grabbed a pack of those thin plastic shims from the flooring aisle. Put a tiny piece behind the bottom hinge on the frame side. Took maybe 1/16 of an inch. Door swung perfect and level. Always heard you only adjust at the hinge, not shim. But it fixed the problem in ten minutes. Anyone else use a weird fix like that for alignment?
I ran into a retired cabinetmaker named Frank at the supply place on Tuesday. He said 'you know, a pocket screw is just a really strong clamp while the glue dries.' I'd always thought of them as a weak joint, but he's right, they pull things tight and the glue does the real work. Now I'm using them for quick case assembly without feeling like I'm cutting corners. Anyone else have a simple trick they were wrong about for years?
For years I only used dados and glue, thinking it was the only strong way. Last month, I had a tight deadline for a kitchen remodel in Boise and tried Kreg pocket screws with their special glue. The boxes went together in half the time and are just as solid after a few months. Has anyone else switched to this method for production work?
I always thought a lower angle was the only way for tricky grain, but after three ruined boards, I set my low-angle jack plane to 40 degrees and got glassy shavings, so what's your go-to trick when the wood just won't behave?
They wanted a waterfall edge with two different wood species, maple and walnut, and insisted the seam be invisible. I spent $300 on specialty clamps and still got a hairline gap because the humidity in my shop spiked halfway through. How do you guys handle mixed-material glue-ups when the weather just won't cooperate?
I keep seeing guys use a random scrap of 1/2 inch plywood as a spacer when installing undermount slides. It's always a different, warped piece, so the drawer gaps are all over the place. I finally asked one guy why, and he said, 'It's close enough.' I had to show him my set of machined aluminum spacers from Rockler to prove how much faster and cleaner it is. What's the weirdest 'close enough' shortcut you've seen someone else take on a job?
I was putting together a big cherry cabinet face frame last week, and the pocket screws kept pulling the joints out of square. I spent about 45 minutes just fighting to get everything lined up perfectly. I switched to using dominos and glue, and the whole thing went together in under 20 minutes with no fuss. It took me way longer to fix the pocket screw issue than it did to just do it right the second time. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble with them on fine furniture?
He pointed out how my 1/2 inch Baltic birch sides felt thin and hollow compared to the 3/4 inch maple fronts. I switched to using 5/8 inch pre-finished maple for all my drawer boxes now, and the solid feel is a huge upgrade. Anyone else get a piece of tough feedback that actually improved your work?